It was four years ago when Lauren and I first stepped on the diverse islands of the Galapagos. It’s often said that one’s first visit to a destination makes them a tourist, oohing and awing over every little thing, while subsequent visits allows one to truly experience and appreciate the little things that makes a destination great. When we landed in South Seymour (Baltra Island), we were welcomed with a warm sun, the odd Blue Footed Booby and an overwhelming gratitude of being able visit this very special place for the second time.

Our first day was slightly different from our previous first day. We still met our local guide, Harry, at the Baltra airport and got acquainted with our shipmates who would become our new family for the next eight days. Previously we took buses that seemed to be held together by duct tape and a prayer to the port however I’m ecstatic to say that the island received brand new busses that do not risk passenger safety with the odd shred of broken glass.

Once to port, we boarded the Samba and were slack jawed upon noticing that many of the crew members we met four years ago were still part of the ensemble: José, our Capitán, Ricardo (Ricky), the first officer and Sifredo, bartender, cabin boy, everyman and futbolista extraordinaire. They were accompanied by Roberto, our always smiling dinghy pilot, Nestor, the engineer and Ivan, the one would feed us (or possible starve Lauren, depending on his menu) for the coming week. Much to our amazement, José and Sifredo recognized us on the spot from our previous trip.

I’m typical Samba fashion, once onboard, we began navigating to the island of Mosquera, a tiny stretch of white sand just northwest of Baltra. Here we were reintroduced to the archipelago in fitting fashion: with a handful of sea lions barking (barking? I’m pretty sure that’s the technical term) and a handful of marine iguanas as we took in our first dose of the islands.

After departing Mosquera, we ended the day again, in typical Samba fashion with our group dinner followed by a briefing from Harry on what we would expect the following day. To everyone’s surprise (especially Steve, one of our companions), we would start our first full day with the sun at six o’clock. Overnight, we began our six hour navigation to the island of Genovesa which would serve as our first proper destination of our week long adventure.

A quick note on the wake up time. This tour company we used to book both trips (CNH Tours) describes their itinerary as ‘active’, and not once has that description not lived up to its name. As we will come to know, this would become our normal schedule for the following week much to the chagrin of my morning self and Steve (poor Steve) but eventually we all become accepting of this because it makes so much sense. The temps in the Galapagos can reach 80-90 F (25C) and the sun is brutal if there isn’t any breeze. Starting early ensures that a) we’re the first group on the island or in the water and b) saves us from the sun’s powerful rays.