Lauren and I had the realization on the London and Berlin flight that we’ve never traveled internationally in the winter to a country that experiences winter like we do back home. This realization was especially evident when we stepped off of the train in Berlin that got us to the city center. Local billboards had the temperature sitting at -1C and, as my phone would confirm later, felt closer to -10 with the 22mph wind chill…if it wasn’t for the German signs, one could believe you are in South Dakota.

Weather aside, the next day we dove headfirst into the city of Berlin which has a fascinating history all its own. While this trip is primarily to experience the infamous Christmas markets, we were able to take in a few of the historic World War II sites to help acclimate to our first stop.

Berlin’s History

We began our walking tour at the Reichstag building, which originally served as the site for the national parliament of Nazi Germany but now houses the legislative branch of the current democratic government. The now iconic glass dome is open to the public and allows anyone to view the legislative chamber.

We continued on to Pariser Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. Built in 1791, it was meant to provide an entrance to the then Prussian palace. As time went on it has been consistently used as a backdrop for newer regimes and is one of the few original structures that wasn’t destroyed during the end of the Second World War.

Not far from the gate is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (ie the Holocaust Memorial) , the contents of which mirror the simplicity and straightforwardness of its name. Situated in the center of Berlin, the memorial consists of over 2700 8’ by 3’ concrete slabs in varying heights and is meant to make visitors feel uneasy and confused to better relate the horrific actions that took place during the war. Seeing the memorial covered in snow which dampened the surround sounds was a particularly jarring experience and Lauren and I lost ourselves in the maze it, feeling simultaneously humbled and terrified.

The Cold War is likely where most living folks will be familiar with the city and remnants are everywhere in central Berlin. Even though the Berlin Wall has long been torn down, sections still remain and more subtly, a line of bricks are embedded within the city’s streets and sidewalks as a reminder of where it used to lay. Of one follows it long enough, you’ll end up where we did at Checkpoint Charlie, the well known border crossing between then East and West Berlin.

Berlin Christmas Markets

After returning to our hotel to thoroughly thaw from our morning excursion, we braved the cold once more to kickoff our marathon of Christmas markets around the city. For the uninitiated, Germans loves Christmas. So much so that last year when we were in Munich we ran across (and visited) three separate Christmas shops that were open year round (we were there in late September). Their love of Christmas is further personified through a month long celebration in every neighborhood of every town through outdoor pop up markets that sell locally made products like wool hats and scarves and decorations ranging from tree ornaments to candle arches all set in wooden shacks with the overwhelmingly delicious smell of grilled wursts, roasted nuts and gingerbread.

Our first market was at Alexanderplatz where we had a lunch of (what was called: “the original”) rōstbratwurst, a bratwurst that is cooked over an open fire and a Rothenburger schneeballen, best described as a shortbread ball dipped in chocolate, for dessert.

I’ll pause here to digress a little. I’ve been asked on several occasions how I know what I’m eating when I don’t know the language. So to quell future inquires, I divulge my secret to figuring it out —- I never really know. Usually Lauren and I will order two different things and try both to see what she finds palatable. If she doesn’t like it, I’ll end up eating it. In all of our travels, there’s only been one thing I haven’t eaten, only because I knew what it was before I did, which translates into travel rule #5 – it’s usually better to not know what you’re eating.

Over the course of the afternoon and evening we visited four separate markets:

• Berliner Weihnachtszeit market just west of Alexanderplatz that had an ice skating rink and a small Ferris wheel
• The Spandau market on the west side of Berlin where I had my first glühwein (red or white wine mulled with Christmas spices, served hot) of the trip. Spandau also had an entire midway connect with their market where kids (and adults alike) played games and rode traditional midway rides. I did not partake due to concerns of my face falling off from the cold.
• Lucia market was in northeast Berlin and had a Scandinavian theme. Swedish and Nordic flags dotted the aisles and we had flammlach (salmon grilled on a cedar plank) in a hoagie bun. We followed that up with the most Scandinavian food we could find – Mac and cheese with garlic and thyme breadcrumbs (and it was seriously good!)
• We stumbled across the Nostalgischer market on our way home from the Lucia market and claimed to be a more traditional market. There were only a handful of stalls but a central stall for the glürwein and other tasty treats

We ended the night by picking up a traditional apple flavored lebkuchen (gingerbread cookie) which curbed all of my previous reservations about gingerbread. I was expecting some hard and lacking flavor but the lebkuchen was super moist and bursting with ginger and apple flavor and is my favorite dessert so far this trip. Once stuffed, we headed to bed to prepare for our early morning train to Dresden.

Travel/Post Details:

• Post includes activities from November 26-28
• Featured Image – The Christmas Pyramid at the Spandau market
• Accommodation – Leonardo Hotel Berlin Mitte
• International flights: PHX>LHR>BER. American and British Airways
• We purchased a 24 train pass that allowed unlimited travel between the city center, Spandau, Alexanderplatz and other A & B zones. After our 5 hour walking tour, we decided hoofing all of Berlin wasn’t a good idea
• We went grocery shopping at Aldi and Rewe to stock up on water, milk and single beers.
• Dinner on the 27th was McDonald’s which consisted of nuggets and pizza rolls. The latter was new and surprising tasty
• During our walking tour we also went to the German Finance Ministry, saw the socialist mural, Humboldt Forum and the Berlin Mall. Had coffee at Die Espresso which sold high end espresso machines and had the best espresso so far
• Coffee the morning of the 28th was at Sag Mir Wo Die Blumen Sind. Small cafe with great coffee and buttery croissants
• “Weihnachtsmarkt” = Christmas Fair